1. Remove "de-icing" mechanism. Clean de-icer before storage, using white vinegar to remove any scale.
2. Clean out debris/leaves in the pond by using a skimmer net.
3. Introduce a sludge eating bacteria as a natural process of "vacuuming" the bottom.
(Sludge Away or Pond Zyme)
4. Re-install filter, clean pads and inspect vital parts, Do you need new pads &
gaskets? Add Microbe-lift Gel or Microbe-lift Spring/Summer bacteria once the filter is started up. Check for cracks in the filter vessel. Check hose
connections.
5. Re-install pump:
Check for frayed wires.
Clean intake & output thoroughly.
6. Re-install UVC. Replace UVC bulb. If applicable, clean quartz sleeve.
7. Check pond lighting for bulb replacements.
8. If pond aerator is present, the aerator filter must be cleaned to protect motor from
over heating.
9. Test your pond water parameters using a water test kit. This is a very important
step, problems can be targeted before escalating especially if there are fish
present.
10. If you need to add water to the pond, be sure to add "Chlorine Neutralizer".
11. If fish are present, inspect their mouths, gills, tail & fins for any problems. Adding
pond salt is highly recommended with fish.
12. Fish should not be fed until water temperature is 55 degrees Fahrenheit for 1-2
weeks straight. A water thermometer should be placed in the pond to monitor
the water temperature. Then start feeding with "Wheat Germ" fish food.
13. Place aquatic plants in their seasonal spots: (Marginals in shallow areas and lilies
in 14" to 16" deep water). Divide any plants using aquatic planting soil.
Fertilize existing plants using aquatic plant tabs.
14. Add Barley Bales to keep algae under control for the season.